Everything you need to know about the skincare ingredient niacinamide (2024)

Niacinamide is an ingredient which has always played a big part in skincare but is finally getting the attention it deserves. Now front and centre of the newest launches, it can help to reduce spots and redness, control sebum levels, calm inflamed skin and refine pores.

We spoke with Paula Begoun of skincare brand Paula's Choice and Dr Anjali Mahto, Consultant Dermatologist and author of The Skincare Bible, to find out why we should consider using niacinamide in our skincare routines.

What is niacinamide?

Niacinamide is a form of vitamin B3 and is most commonly found in serums and moisturisers. It works to strengthen the skin barrier and maintain moisture levels by boosting ceramide production. The anti-inflammatory properties of this ingredient also help to soothe skin concerns such as acne or rosacea.

How and when do you use niacinamide?

Niacinamide can be used morning and night.

Because it plays well with other skincare ingredients (even potentially tricky actives such as exfoliating acids and vitamin C) it will sit happily alongside anything else you’re using.

Niacinamide and acids are a match made in skincare heaven, adds Paula Begoun. "Acids such as glycolic, salicylic, and azelaic enhance the benefits of niacinamide on skin concerns such as uneven tone, dark spots, post-acne marks, and large pores. Results can be evident in just a few days," she says.

Using niacinamide during the day can also help to protect your skin from sun damage; there's interesting evidence that shows niacinamide and SPF could be a dream team, says Paula. "Research has shown niacinamide can interrupt the terrible inflammation UV light causes in the skin, so using a niacinamide booster under your sunscreen is a great way to protect and repair."

Shop our favourite niacinamide serums for glowing skin

What are the benefits of niacinamide?

Everyone can benefit from strengthening their skin’s barrier function; exactly what niacinamide does.

‘Niacinamide reduces water loss from the epidermis by increasing ceramides and proteins found in the skin barrier layer," says Dr. Mahto. A robust barrier will also protect against environmental aggressors, slowing down visible signs of ageing in the long term.

Reducing uneven pigmentation is another key benefit, says Dr. Mahto, helping to even out all skin tones, particularly those suffering from rosacea or hyperpigmentation. ‘Studies show that niacinamide reduces the appearance of hyper-pigmented spots in both Asian and Caucasian skin. It does this by acting on the process that leads to melanin and pigment production,’ she explains.

Shop our favourite niacinamide moisturisers

Anyone dealing with oily skin and mild acne will benefit from the ingredient's ability to calm breakouts. Regular use can also lead to tighter-looking pores. ‘Niacinamide reduces sebum production in the skin, which may indirectly help to reduce pore size’.

You'll also find niacinamide listed alongside stronger ingredients such as prescription retinoids, where it’s used to balance out the side effects of dryness and sensitivity.

Shop our favourite niacinamide treatments for breakout-prone skin

Who should use niacinamide?

Niacinamide suits all skin types, including those with sensitive skin and recommended for people with rosacea. ‘It’s well tolerated and causes minimal skin irritation,’ says Dr. Mahto.

However, it's always wise to patch test a new product first and stop if you experience any reaction. Dr. Mahto also recommends those concerned about "dark age spots" try niacinamide.

Like this article? Sign up to our newsletter to get more articles like this delivered straight to your inbox.

SIGN UP